Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Everything broke today...

My favorite blush
My home button
The day backpack
Steve's iPhone
The train to Bangkok (5 hr delay)

Boo.

Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Thailand: Getting in the Groove

At first, we didn't know what traveling would be like; I pictured frazzled running to and fro or staggering aimlessly in the blazing heat, heavy packs strapped to our backs. But humans adapt. We quickly take the experiences of daily life and apply them to our new surroundings. Old habits creep back in and we force the chaos of new environments into some sort of rhythm that we can make sense of. This has been our experience. Quickly, we have developed patterns and rituals that have helped us cope with new, sometimes overstimulating surroundings. Here are some examples:


The New Accommodation Routine:

Traveling is nomadic; here today, gone tomorrow. The maximum stay in one location has been three nights. Every accommodation is different. Some are nice; some are not. One thing remains constant: the blistering heat. Every arrival to the reception desk feels the same. I am hot. I smell. My backpack is digging into my hips (praise be that we packed relatively light!). It is torture to stand in one place. The check-in process seems to take forever and I feel like gravity is pulling on me so hard I fight the urge to sit on the floor. When we finally get the key, we march straight to the room, drop our bags and turn on the air conditioner. We grab the two supplied towels, roll them out on top of the bed (to avoid skin contact with the contaminated covers) and strip. We lie, separated by our towels, our body stench and urge to hit anything that invades our space, and beg our core temperatures to drop. We start to feel human again. We regain our ability to speak to one another, and psyche ourselves up to go back outside and face the elements again.

For the rest of our stay, we will repeat this ritual every time we enter the threshold. In fact, when we get angry-hot (our word to describe the type of mood we are in), we calm each other down by saying "imagine you are in the room, on the towel". Always think happy thoughts.


The Sleep Routine:

Before we left, Steve's dad and brother Danny gave us a thoughtful parting gift: small flashlights. These have become an important staple in the sleep routine. Before we go to sleep, we do a "bug check". Correction. Steve does a "bug check". This is usually completed with me sitting on my towel on the bed, while Steve brings both flashlights to shoulder level. Arms bent and teeth bared. He tiptoes around the parameter of the room, making sure each corner is clear. He then moves stealthily to the centre of the room, and with the authority of a SWATT team leader, he performs the most critical part of the check: The under-and-around-the-bed-check. I wait for the verdict. "All Clear" he yells. I then get up to assist. We perform a risk assessment. Are the cracks in the door big or small? Are the windows screened or shuttered? Is the drain in the bathroom big or small? Is there a hot stench rising from it? Are there any food crumbs/ particles hanging around? If any of these checks seem sketchy, we bring in the reinforcements. I hand him the Muskol Deep Woods mosquito cream (that he made fun of when I packed it). He dots it along any breachable parameter, and I smear it to create a smooth line of protection. In the morning we assess the success of the mission. Normally this looks like a thick strip of fallen bugs, lying dead in the wake of our forethought. Mission accomplished.


The Traveling Routine:

Thanks to the lessons I learned from my mother, I always plan ahead. For example, in the mornings, I know that if I haven't gone to the washroom, I am going to need a toilet as soon as we are not in the vicinity of one. I "try" even if I don't have to. I don't drink water when going long distances on scooters or busses. I pride myself on this skill. Over time, I have successfully calibrated my colon and bladder so that I am not inconvenienced by nature's call. My mother would be proud. Steve, on the otherhand, hasn't mastered this technique. On any given trip, five minutes out the door and away from the nearest toilet, he will have to "go". Maybe it's because he has very little shame in actually using nature: The woods, the ocean, the ditches and sometimes the sides of roads are all fair game in his eyes...but of course I get to stand around as the awkward bystandard. This lack of forethought routine also applies to putting on sunscreen (why put it on before we are about to get on the scooter?) checking the map to see where we are going (it's no big deal to pull over in busy traffic with no shoulders) and etc. Maybe it's my lack of spontaneity, but sometimes I just don't get this particular ritual. However, it doesnt appear to be dissapearing anytime soon, so I guess I will just "go" with it.

The Snack Routine:

In each new place we visit, we orient ourselves according to the nearest familiar land mark: The 7-11 (or "Sevvie", in Stavanah lingo). In Thialand there is one on every block, and so the one closest to us becomes our main supply hub. To stay healthy and on our game, we try to keep our energy levels up by bringing snacks along with us. I like to buy almonds, granola bars and the occasional sports drink if it's really hot to help fight off dehydration and fatigue. Steve buys Oreos. Lots, and lots of Oreos. I think he has a problem. They are a perfect storm of temptation: Sweet, delicious, and only .30 cents a pack. He chows down on them all day, keeping himself full and happy. I think he is up to two packs a day-- I don't think his mother would approve of his snacking habbits. He may require intervention when we get home, but I'm sure the inflated costs will help detur him.


I'm sure that these would all be very interesting behaviors for any phycologist, biologist or perhaps zoologist to observe, but they sure do make life around these parts interesting and fun!

More to come on Koh Phangan and Koh Tao soon!

Till next time...




Saturday, 13 April 2013

Thailand: Koh Samui

The New Year is celebrated very differently across Southeast Asia. In Bali, we were there to witness the island become decorated with beautiful bamboo decals, heard the squeals of suckling pigs being slaughtered for the feast, and watched people in beautiful dress bring offerings to the family temples for their lost love ones.

In Thailand, New Years is celebrated with more of a splash.

Our host Lenora, an expat from Ireland, warned us about this festival.

"We want to go to town to check out the festival tomorrow. Should we rent a scooter?" Steve asked.

"Not if ya wanta be shot straight off yer bike. I saw it happen with me own eyes last year. Nasty spill. I wouldn't", she drawled in her thick Irish accent.

Shot off a bike! No thanks.... We decided we would walk.

We got about one block before we were hit.

Splash. A big bucket of ice water right over our heads. Songkran was in full force!

Songkran is the New Year festival where the locals celebrate the end of the hot season by having a nation-wide, massive water fight. It was first thought to be started long ago as a way to purify for the new year. The sacred statues would be paraded down the street where they would be splashed with water. A peaceful beginning... but I imagine that somewhere along the way some monks got a little too emphatic and began to splash each other. Today, was anything but peaceful. You had to stay on your toes.

We walked for a while. Taxis wanted a premium to take us to the town, so we decided to see if we could find a tuk tuk. As we walked truckfulls of kids, families, boys and teenagers barreled past us with water guns, buckets and other devices meant to get us soaked. It worked well. To be extra nasty, people will load their water buckets with ice water, and there were ice trucks driving up and down the streets to make sure there was an ample supply. Once we were freezing and covered in talcum goop (another ceremonial device) we decided to ask someone in a truck if we could catch a ride.

We happened upon a group of friendly Russians who had rented a truck, and were loaded to the gills. They had ponchos, ice buckets, and water guns, ready to attack. By the time we hit the first main village the streets we so lined with dancing, water fighting people that it took us hours to get through. It was amazing though to look out on the streets and take in the people. Not one person was frowning. It was a good natured, joyful event. Every bike, car, pedestrian and scooter got soaked by waiting onlookers, and everyone was happy. It's something we won't forget.

We were glad we didn't take the bike-- we could see how accidents could easily happen, if water were to hit you in the face while driving. Plus, we met some really great people and had an adventure.

We finally made it back and wrung out our clothes just in time for a downpour of rain. We ended the day playing guitar in a hutch on the beach and wrote some music. A pretty great way to ring in the new year a third time!


Off to Koh Phangan tomorrow!

Captions:
1. Wowee
2. More like handsome
3. Ferry to Koh Samui
4. Oh baby
5-8. Waterfight!














Thailand: AoNang and Railay Beach

It is said that over time, dogs start to look like their owners. It should also be said, that couples who spend each and every moment together will start to look and act like one another. Please see below pics to confirm physical similarities.

As for the behavior, sometimes we will begin to hum the exact same song at the exact same moment....or make the same observation about something at the same instance. We scare ourselves. When Steve starts to use more of my toiletries than just my hand cream I will start to get worried.

To be with someone 24/7 is not easy. At home we are often so busy that we can go a few weeks without even traveling in the same car. To then find yourself attached in every way is an adjustment-- I'm an introvert who needs alone time and quiet to recharge. Steve is an extrovert who needs attention and stimulation to recharge. He doesn't quite get my subtle suggestions for him to go for breakfast alone or get coffee....but that's what I love about him. We are learning to communicate really well and feel this trip has so far been wonderful for working on those skills. Happy to report, we have avoided nit-picky, bad-mood, irritated digs and snaps, and are so far are really enjoying each others company. Thank God for modeling and supplying such mercies that we might learn to love one another fully.

Speaking of this fun "togetherness", we had a great time in AoNang and Railay beach. AoNang is a town on the mainland of Krabi province. It is quite busy and westernized there. There was a Thai McDonalds with some fun Thai food on the menu (though we didn't eat there), and Ronald stands at the entrance to greet you with a traditional Thai greeting : Arms folded in a prayer position, head slightly bowed. There was even a Starbucks, but it was more expensive than home. Ridiculous!

We mostly beach hopped again, and I won't go into much details about the sun and sand since I know Alberta is a giant snow-fort right now, but it was great. Raliay beach was a favorite so far.

On the second day it rained so we walked around town. We then decided we were ready to visit more islands, so we booked a bus/ferry with our hotel to take us to Koh Samui. The nice lady at the desk said she could book it for us no problem, and at 8:30am, right on time, our driver showed up in a nice seven passenger, air conditioned van to take us 6 hours to the ferry port. "Just a few stops he said" as he stopped and picked up a Chinese father-son duo. We happily introduced ourselves and chatted with them about our travels. We stopped again. This time another couple joined us. We said hello. Then we stopped again. Picked up three more people. We transferred at a "bus depot" and picked up some more people. Then we collected a grannie, and lady and a small baby, stopped again and picked up the drivers friend. By the time we were on our way our poor van was so packed full of people I am surprised we could drive. Our ride continued on that way. 3 more "bus transfers" and then we finally arrived at the ferry, 2 hours later than they told us.

Oh well....only in Thailand! But we made it! Steve and I ate nothing but ice cream that day to cheer ourselves up. Our new accommodation on Koh Samui was worth it though....right on the beach and back to paradise, and so far only one cockroach, a lizard, and a colony of ants in the room. Life is a beach!


Captions:
1. Asian Ronald (for Matt)
2-4. Railay Beach
5. Steve modeling braids after he realizes how convenient they are
6. Twins
7. More Railay
8. Cutie
















Thialand: Koh Lanta

After we left Koh Phi Phi, we went to Koh Lanta, which was recommended to us as a quieter, less touristy place. The roads were very quiet so we rented a scooter and booted around for a few days. We drove all along the coast and saw the main beaches, which were beautiful.

Our BnB was a lovely little guesthouse right on the ocean. It was built on stilts and when we went to bed we could hear the tide moving beneath us. It was beautiful. There was even sea life! One night I heard Steve shriek like a girl. He pointed: "Tarantula!" I was afraid until It started running away. Diagonally. It was actually a big, fat crab! I'm glad it wasn't a spider!

Some of our favorite things to do in Koh Lanta was run along the water. There was a nice paved road that ran along the beach and the water went right up to the sea wall when the tide was in. With the sun setting and wind blowing it was a peaceful time to listen to music and to think. The best part was reaching the end of the road which led down to a small beach enclosed by trees, stripping off our sweaty clothes and swimming in our skivvies. I would be a much more dedicated runner at home if every run ended like that!

Nightlife on the island was pretty quiet, so one night we scooted to a Thai bar to hear some music. We ended up playing (I wrote a separate post about that). Locals here really value music, and we felt really blessed to have them take such an interest in us. The whole place had a really cool vibe. One of the things we found really strange about the bar was that everyone brought their own bottle of alcohol. They just ordered a bucket of ice and some mix from the restaurant. It was such a cool, collective feeling because of that-- people we just there to socialize. The bar was packed and everyone was smiling and having fun.

Beer here is very cheap, less than a dollar, and they have 3 local brews: Chang, Leo, and Singha. Steve decided that night he wanted to try one of each, but they kept bringing him a large bottle instead of the regular small ones. Being the Dutchman that he is, he couldn't let any go to waste. I ended up driving us home because our Canadian conscience kicked In. It seemed like a great idea until we were on the bike. "Ugh, where's the throttle?" I asked, to which Steve pointed. I hit the button and the horn honked. "Seriously," I say, "Where is the throttle?" He points again and the blinkers turn on. At this point he is laughing his head off at me and I am angry. We were in the middle of a foreign town and me, who has never driven a bike before had to get us home in the dark, and there's my husband laughing so hard that I can't tell if he is giggling or speaking in some acquired Thai. All the locals were standing around watching, probably making fun of me. Finally after I got off and threaten to push it home, he showed me the twist throttle, built into the handle bar. I was expecting a thumb throttle like the one on quads. It was a quiet ride back.

We did manage to get home in one piece, although there were some sketchy moments. I am definitely glad that the scooter driving is not up to me...we would not be in one piece if it were.

After our night of adventure we bought a watermelon from a stand and hit the sea's again for AoNang.

Captions:
1. Professional scooterers
2. Professional
3. Fashion statement
4. Beached tree.







Thailand: Phuket and Koh Phi Phi

Hey everyone. People known and unknown. Thanks for coming along! Writing a blog is sometimes like homework....but getting to share our adventures with people we love is great motivation!

Thailand is known as the "Land of Smiles". The locals here are very gracious. Very shy and polite, but they are always smiling. According to the Internet, Thais have many different smiles. Annoyed, shy, polite, angry, look at someone in any situation and they appear serene.


When we first arrived, we landed in Phuket, the main hub of the south. We did not stay in Phuket long. It is a huge, unorganized city filled with people wanting tourist dollars. "Taxi? TukTuk? Massage? Eat here? Sarong? Drink?" On and on and on, but so the competitive world of tourism goes.

In Phuket we mainly walked around and went to Patong beach, one of the busiest beaches for tourists out there. Bars line every street. Every kind of bar you can imagine....some of which are so horrible they are almost unimaginable. So we quickly booked a ferry and went to the islands.

We headed to the Koh Phi Phi islands, which are known for their beauty, but also for a good party. Thinking we were still cool, we thought it might be nice to go and drink some beers on the beach and meet people. We quickly realized we are no longer that cool. Old. Married. Relaxed. We got bored fast. Unless you like "clubbing" on the beach, there wasn't much to do. Most of the beautiful beach is crowded with loud bars-- so loud you couldn't talk to anyone. The atmosphere is so aggressive you can't shut it out even if you want to. Our room, a hop to the beach, was a perfect resonant drum for several loud bars. The bass was so loud it rattled everything in our room: our bed, the fans, the furniture, and us. Ipods and earplugs were useless. We quickly moved on.

Although Koh Phi Phi was not our favorite, we did take a day tour that took us snorkeling and to all of the beautiful uninhabited islands around it. We saw Bamboo island, great for snorkeling, Monkey island, filled with monkeys (not our favorite animal...) and Maya Beach, where the filming of "The Beach" with Leonardo DiCaprio was shot. It was alot of fun aside from our boat, which was a traditional long tail Thai boat that they packed to the gills with tourists. On the way home the sea was rough and everyone got a bit stressed with all the pitching around the boat was doing. I was holding onto Steve for dear life, while I calculated all the safety risks: not enough life jackets, a rickety covering that would trap us all in if we capsized, broken floorboards, no oars, overcrowded, etc etc. There were more than 100 ways to die, it only took a rough sea for me to notice it all. Steve, on the other hand, just looked at me and laughed. He thinks I worry too much, but I come by water honestly... just watch my dad in a pool sometime (just imagine throwing a cat into a swimming pool...)

Since getting back on solid land I am now fully equipped with safety equipment. I have done more research on possible hazards and now carry around vinegar ( for jellyfish stings) , antiseptics for mosquito bites to prevent infection, and take more anti theft precautions. You can never be too prepared..... You may think I worry too much, but I come by that honestly too.... Just ask my mother if she worries about us being away...


But all my OCD aside, we have been having a great time and feel relaxed. Food has been great.
I am addicted to Cashew Chicken and so far Steve has tried almost all of the main Thai dishes. We may have to take a cooking class or too, although we have been saving that for either Turkey or Cambodia. More adventures to come!



Captions:
1. Lotsa boats
2. Lotsa beauty
3-5. Lotsa lights
6. Monkey island











Singing in Thialand


"You play?" Says the Thai lady, pointing at the guitar in Steve's hand as he tests out one of the guitars for sale in the back of a small bar.

"Yeah, we both do, a bit" He replies, pointing a thumb over at me while I sit at our table and drink my Chang.

"You come on stage later and play" She says.

So we do.

The small bar is packed with local Thais, on the small Island of Koh Lanta. It is late at night and we are on a scooter adventure. Mr. Guitar, the owner of the bar invites us up. We begin to play and suddenly people are cheering. They are bobbing their heads. They are clapping along. I feel my heart starting to quicken and I close my eyes. I just open my mouth wide and let the notes fly out. They sail beautifully into the horizon, to the ocean and rest there. My adrenaline makes my body shake, but I'm not nervous. I'm free. It feels nice. It sounds like me.